Ludwig in Wales

 Another starry night with some shooting stars. Orangey crescent moon low in the sky. The van windows are very misty and the sun take a while to warm the autumn morning. We are off in good time and head towards Llanthony priory which is the other side of the Black mountains, and takes about 40 minutes. A rather long single track windy road to get there. We meet Ben and Sally at 10:00 and walk up from the ruins of the priory to the top of Hatterall Ridge, about a 300 m climb so nothing too strenuous. Lovely sunny day, hazy views. Offa’s old kingdom of Mercia below us.  We continue our walk along the ridge before a gradual descent back to the priory. Picnic lunch on a bench and then we say our farewells and make our way back to Topsham. It clouds over just as we leave and remains grey for the remainder of the trip. Back home at about 4:30. Time for tea and unpacking.

 We wake to blue skies and no wind - probably the best day yet and without the crowds and the festival atmosphere the campsite almost feels idyllic. The situation certainly is as we breakfast beneath the shadow of Tryfan. We are packed and on the road by 9.30 and drive in convoy through stunning mountain scenery along the A470 to Dolgellau. We park easily and revisit TH Roberts cafe in the old iron mongers where Ellie and Simon have bacon + egg baps and I have the most delicious piece of carrot cake (which Simon insists is enormous.... meagre in my opinion!) We find a catering van in the car park selling authentic Indian cuisine and we decide to buy our supper. Back on the scenic winding road through Wales to the Brecon Beacons where we circle a roundabout several times due to road closures but eventually arrive safely at Cwmdu campsite just outside Crickhowell. A tranquil scenic setting with flat marked pitches, immaculately clean facilities and filled with PLU - we are probably f...

 The campsite is emptying very pleasingly! It’s been too full. We leave at 10:30 along the packhorse track and head up from Tal y llyn Ogwen and make our way up, and with some scrambling, poles away in rucksack, to Pen y Ole Wen 978m. A lovely flat top with views of Anglesey and we can even see the Llyn peninsula where we stayed at Aberafon. Conical Tryfan prominent and lower than us. Then along to Carnedd  Fach, then to Carnedd Dafydd where we eat our lunch out of the very blustery easterly (and cold) wind. Carnedd Llewelyn (the second highest Snowdonian peak at 1064m) is our next destination. We decide to do the airy scramble down and then up to Pen yr Helga Du, with worryingly steep drops on either side. And then a lovely walk along the ridge to get (eventually) to the leat, which we walk wearily along to the reservoir service road and then down and back to our site. A 7 hour expedition and we have walked pretty much everything we can se along the skyline from Ludwig. A ver...

 It is 3 in the bed for our early morning cup of tea as Ellie joins us to savour the view from downstairs. Still some low cloud so a bit warmer although high wind is forecast. We decide to head for Crimpiau and walk to Capel Curig along the Glyderau track. Simon is now too hot in his long trousers so we stop off at Joe Browns outdoor shop to purchase some shorts! We chat too much and miss the turning and have to retrace our steps several times before actually starting the walk. I am getting stressed but Ellie is calming, the sun is out, Simon is cool in his shorts so all is not lost! Finally on the right track we head up towards the top of Crimpiau admiring views of Moel Siabod and the Snowdon Horseshoe on the way. Lunch overlooking Llyn Crafnant before heading onwards and upwards, and downwards and upwards to Crimpiau, then Craig Wen and finally towards Creigiau Gleision negotiating many a bog and generally a lack of clear path. A short cut down to Llyn Cowlyd reservoir involves b...

 Really chilly night. Amazing stars with the Milky Way clearly visible running as a thick band across the sky. Orion with his belt shining brightly, Cassiopeia upside down. We’re wondering if Ellie will be warm enough up in the attic. Our neighbour from Rochdale’s teeth are chattering as he talks to us about walking routes. We set off at 10:00 along the old packhorse track, a stone’s throw from the more modern A5 with its roaring traffic. It seems so busy. All car parks full. We follow the track to lake Ogwell  and then the pavement lined with cones to stop cars parking on it (which has been in the news - cars being towed away) arriving at the new visitors’ centre, where we head up to Lyn Idwal, then further up (about 600m of climb today) to the stile which lies between Tryfan and Glyder Fach. We are on the old miners’ track and we follow this for a while more until diverting towards Foel Goch. Then on downwards to Capel Curig where we join the packhorse track and head back to...

 We wake to blue skies and tranquil sea, what a glorious spot this is. We are sad to leave but excited to move on to new adventures. We pack up and drive a long way to the tip of the Llyn peninsula to Mynnedd Mawr ( I am so glad we didn’t cycle, 45 minutes even to drive 24 miles!). The road is very narrow at the end and Simon does very well to navigate past a few oncoming vehicles without getting too stressed. We walk amongst the gorse and heather with turquoise seas and views to Bardsey island. I suggest an inland diversion which gets us lost and we have to walk along the road. Still, interesting footpath sign on the way - see photo. Lunch (meagre) in the van before venturing back along the narrow road. Unscathed, we reach Aberdaron but the car parks are full so we will have to come back another day. Tescos at Porthmadog to replenish stocks and then an incredibly scenic road winding up in to the Snowdonian mountains. Spectacular in the sunshine. We reach Capel Curig and then along...