Day 9: Friday 11 September - to Graig wen, Snowdonia

 We wake early unintentionally but useful as it means we are up and on the road by 9am. Rather overcast and grey as we head north along the Pembrokeshire coast to Fishguard and then Cardigan. Here we see the ruins of the castle from the road and make the most of free council car parking by the Teifi river while we wander along the eclectic High Street and enjoy a coffee. Then onwards to New Quay which allegedly inspired Dylan Thomas’ “Under Milk Wood”, the name of the town being Llareggub (read it backwards!). Steep streets of colourful houses leading to the harbour which is also famous for seeing Bottleneck dolphins. Indeed we see some fins synchronising not far from the shore. Rough Guide recommends Lime Crab for its seafood platter and chips for two so we go for an early lunch: delicious battered fresh fish, scampi, prawns, squid and mackerel by the harbour. On to Aberaeron, rather more chic but busy and difficult to park but eventually we find a slot and wander for a while. We buy a copy of the aforementioned book in a quaint bookshop and have Honey ice cream, another recommendation from Lonely Planet. The weather clears a bit and the road is really impressive as it hugs the coast to Aberystwyth. We stock the larder, fridge and wine cellar from Morrisons before heading inland to Machynlleth and over to Dolgellau, the southern Snowdonian  ranges in our sights. Our campsite is right above the Mawddach Estuary and there are amazing views, albeit not directly from our pitch. Certainly very tranquil and the lower pitches for tents are incredibly wild and remote. A brief wander for photos before showers and drinkies. A meagre supper perhaps....







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